Unearthing the History of Harrisburg Brewing: From Barnitz to Troegs

Harrisburg’s beer history is rich, spanning centuries, from its early brewing days to the modern craft beer renaissance. As I wandered through the stories and places that shaped the city’s brewing legacy, I couldn’t help but feel a connection to the brewmasters who laid the foundation for the thriving scene we enjoy today.

The Early Days: Barnitz Brewery and Beyond

It’s often said that brewing in Harrisburg dates back to the 18th century. While that might be true in legend, the earliest documented brewery I could trace is the Barnitz Brewery, established in 1831. This was no small operation—Barnitz would later transform into Fink’s Brewery, a name that would outlast most others in the city’s brewing history.

Barnitz was a common name in brewing circles back then. The Barnitz family had breweries all over—Baltimore, York, Lancaster, and even Chambersburg. But it was here in Harrisburg where they left a lasting legacy. By 1862, a young journeyman named Henry Fink was working in the Barnitz Brewery. With a modest $600 investment, Fink and his brother-in-law, Christian Boyer, leased the brewery, producing fourteen barrels of ale and porter a day during the cooler months. By 1865, their output had surged to 4,000 barrels, a testament to the city’s thirst for their “pure unadulterated malt liquors.”

As I walked along Chestnut Street, imagining the bustling brew houses that once lined these roads, I was reminded of the transience of success. Breweries like those of Mary E. German, Leon Cramer, and Philip Gorman had their moment but faded as quickly as they appeared, leaving only faint traces in the annals of Harrisburg’s history.

The Rise of Fink and the Brewing Boom

By the late 19th century, Harrisburg’s brewing scene was alive and kicking. Henry Fink, now the sole proprietor of what had become the Keystone Brewery, was one of the city’s biggest names. His brewery was at the center of Harrisburg’s brewing community, producing lager beer in a new facility he built in 1881.

The 1880s were a time of transformation, not just for Fink but for Harrisburg’s brewing industry as a whole. In 1887, Fink played a crucial role in uniting Pennsylvania brewers against the Brooks High License Law, a state legislature act that threatened their livelihood. His leadership at that meeting solidified his status as a key figure in Harrisburg’s beer history.

Sadly, like many great breweries, Fink’s story ended with Prohibition. Despite a brief revival after the ban on alcohol was lifted, the Keystone Brewery couldn’t withstand the pressures of the Great Depression. By 1934, the brewery had closed its doors, leaving behind only memories and the faint scent of hops that once filled the air.

The Forgotten Breweries: Doehne’s and Graupner’s

While Fink’s Brewery is a name many in Harrisburg might still recognize, others have faded into near obscurity. Take Doehne’s Brewery, for instance. Established in 1862 by George Doehne, this brewery was known for its small but quality production. At its peak, Doehne’s was churning out over 3,000 barrels of beer annually, with innovations like a refrigerated storage house designed by Otto C. Wolf, a renowned brewery architect.

Doehne’s story is a classic tale of a family-run operation, with George’s sons taking over after his death. They adapted to the times, even surviving Prohibition by relying on income from rental properties. But as with many small brewers, the pressure to modernize and compete with larger breweries eventually led to their closure in 1939. Today, little remains of Doehne’s, other than the memories and a few rare pieces of breweriana that collectors covet.

Graupner’s Brewery, another giant in Harrisburg’s brewing history, followed a similar path. Founded by Robert H. Graupner in 1893, it was Harrisburg’s largest brewery at the time, with a capacity to produce 25,000 barrels annually. The brewery’s Elfenweiss and Export beers were local favorites, and the Graupner family remained influential in the city for decades. Yet, even with its success, Graupner’s couldn’t escape the fate that befell so many others. After Prohibition, they struggled to regain their footing, and by 1951, the brewery was sold off and liquidated, closing a significant chapter in Harrisburg’s brewing history.

The Modern Renaissance: Appalachian Brewing Company and Troegs

Fast forward to the late 20th century, and Harrisburg saw a resurgence in its brewing tradition. In 1997, Appalachian Brewing Company opened its doors, bringing brewing back to the city after decades of dormancy. Located in a repurposed 19th-century building, Appalachian Brewing Co. (ABC) became a beloved institution, known for its Trail Blaze Organic Brown Ale and Mountain Lager. The brewpub’s success led to expansions in Gettysburg, Camp Hill, and Collegeville, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of Central Pennsylvania’s craft beer scene.

Just a stone’s throw away, Troegs Brewing Co. also got its start in 1997, founded by brothers John and Chris Trogner. Initially, it was tough to convince locals to switch from mainstream beers, but persistence paid off. Troegs’ HopBack Amber Ale and Troegenator Double Bock quickly became staples, not just in Harrisburg but across the Mid-Atlantic region.

The brothers’ success led to a big move in 2011, when they relocated the brewery to Hershey. This new facility allowed them to scale up production and continue experimenting with their beloved Scratch Beer Series. Though Troegs left the city, their roots remain deeply intertwined with Harrisburg’s brewing history.

A City’s Legacy, A Brewer’s Dream

Harrisburg’s brewing history is a story of passion, perseverance, and the ever-changing tides of fortune. From the early days of Barnitz and Fink to the modern craft beer movement led by ABC and Troegs, the city’s love affair with beer continues to thrive. As I sip on a pint of Appalachian’s Jolly Scot Scottish Ale, I can’t help but feel a deep connection to the brewers who came before, those who laid the foundation for the vibrant scene we enjoy today.

The next time you’re enjoying a local brew, take a moment to toast the brewers of Harrisburg’s past. Their stories, much like their beers, are worth savoring.

(Source: Olde Breweries – Harrisburg)

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• Unearthing the History of Harrisburg Brewing: From Barnitz to Troegs

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