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Book Review: The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs (Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher)

Tue, 30 Apr 2024 04:15:31 +0000

The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher

Homebrewing

Homebrewing is a fascinating and rewarding hobby that allows beer enthusiasts to create their own unique brews from the comfort of their homes. The process involves combining basic ingredients—malted grains, hops, yeast, and water—in specific ways to produce a wide variety of beer styles. Homebrewing offers an incredible amount of creative freedom, as brewers can experiment with different ingredients and techniques to craft beers that match their personal tastes and preferences. This DIY approach not only deepens one’s appreciation for the art and science of brewing but also provides a sense of accomplishment with each successful batch.

The journey of homebrewing typically begins with selecting a recipe and gathering the necessary equipment and ingredients. Beginner brewers often start with extract brewing, which uses malt extract to simplify the process. This method requires less equipment and shorter brew times, making it accessible for newcomers. As brewers gain experience and confidence, many transition to all-grain brewing, which involves mashing malted grains to extract fermentable sugars. All-grain brewing offers greater control over the beer’s flavor and body, allowing for more nuanced and complex brews. Essential equipment for homebrewing includes a large kettle, fermenter, airlock, thermometer, hydrometer, and bottling supplies.

The brewing process itself is a blend of science and art. It begins with mashing, where crushed grains are soaked in hot water to convert starches into sugars. The resulting liquid, called wort, is then boiled, and hops are added at various stages to impart bitterness, flavor, and aroma. After boiling, the wort is rapidly cooled and transferred to a fermenter, where yeast is added to begin fermentation. During this stage, which can last from a few days to several weeks, the yeast consumes the sugars in the wort, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. Monitoring and maintaining proper fermentation temperatures is crucial for ensuring the desired characteristics of the final beer.

After fermentation, the beer is typically conditioned for a period to develop its flavors and carbonation. This can be done in bottles or kegs, with the addition of a small amount of sugar or pressurized CO2 to create carbonation. Patience is key during this phase, as conditioning can take several weeks, but the wait is usually well worth it. Once conditioning is complete, the beer is ready to be enjoyed. Homebrewers often take pride in sharing their creations with friends and family, and the feedback received can be invaluable for refining future batches.

One of the most exciting aspects of homebrewing is the community that comes with it. Homebrewers are a passionate and supportive group, often eager to share tips, recipes, and experiences. Many cities have homebrew clubs where members can exchange knowledge and sample each other’s beers. Online forums and social media groups also provide a wealth of information and camaraderie. Whether brewing solo or with a group, homebrewing is a hobby that fosters creativity, learning, and a deeper appreciation for the craft of beer making. It’s a journey filled with experimentation, occasional challenges, and the ultimate reward of enjoying a beer that’s truly your own.

Growing Hops

Growing hops is a rewarding endeavor for homebrewers looking to infuse their beer with fresh, homegrown ingredients. Hops are the flowers of the hop plant (Humulus lupulus), and they play a crucial role in brewing by adding bitterness, flavor, and aroma to beer. The first step in growing hops is selecting the right variety based on your climate and the flavor profile you desire. Popular varieties like Cascade, Centennial, and Chinook are favored by many brewers for their versatility and distinctive characteristics. Hops require a sunny location with well-drained soil, and they thrive in temperate climates with long days during the growing season.

Once you’ve chosen your hop varieties, the next step is planting. Hops are typically grown from rhizomes, which are root cuttings taken from mature plants. Plant the rhizomes in early spring, about 4-6 inches deep, and space them about 3 feet apart to give each plant plenty of room to grow. As hops are vigorous climbers, it’s essential to provide a sturdy trellis or support system for the bines (the stems of the hop plant) to climb. Regular watering, especially during dry periods, and mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and keep the roots cool.

Caring for hops involves regular maintenance to ensure healthy growth and a bountiful harvest. Hops can grow up to 20 feet in a single season, so training the bines to climb the trellis is crucial. Pruning the lower leaves and shoots encourages airflow and reduces the risk of disease. Hops are susceptible to pests such as aphids and spider mites, as well as diseases like powdery mildew. Regular inspection and prompt treatment with appropriate organic or chemical controls can help manage these issues. By late summer, the hop cones will begin to ripen, and you’ll know they are ready to harvest when they feel dry and papery, and the lupulin glands inside the cones are a vibrant yellow. After harvesting, the hops should be dried and stored properly to preserve their qualities for brewing.

Book Review: The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher

GoodReads Blurb:

Grow a beer garden! Enhance the flavor, aroma, and personality of your homebrew by cultivating your own hops, herbs, and malt grains. With expert advice on choosing and maintaining the best plants for your needs, Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher show you how to turn a small patch of backyard, or even a few window boxes, into a renewable brewing supply store. Discover the satisfaction that comes from brewing tasty beers using fresh homegrown ingredients.

GoodReads – The Homebrewer’s Garden

The Homebrewer’s Garden by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher is an essential guide for any homebrewer looking to elevate their craft by cultivating their own ingredients. This comprehensive manual covers the entire process of growing, preparing, and utilizing hops, malts, and brewing herbs, making it a valuable resource for both novice and experienced brewers who wish to take a hands-on approach to their beer-making.

One of the book’s greatest strengths is its detailed and practical advice on gardening techniques tailored specifically for brewing ingredients. The Fishers draw from their extensive experience to provide step-by-step instructions on planting, nurturing, and harvesting hops and other plants. They also include information on soil preparation, pest management, and seasonal care, ensuring that readers have all the tools they need to successfully grow high-quality ingredients. The authors’ passion for homebrewing and gardening shines through, making the text engaging and accessible.

Beyond gardening, The Homebrewer’s Garden delves into the preparation and use of these homegrown ingredients in brewing. The book offers a wealth of recipes and brewing tips, demonstrating how to incorporate fresh hops, malted grains, and herbs into a variety of beer styles. The inclusion of unique brewing herbs like yarrow, juniper, and coriander adds an exciting dimension for brewers looking to experiment with flavors and create distinctive brews. This holistic approach, from garden to glass, empowers homebrewers to craft beers that are truly their own, imbued with the flavors and aromas of their own gardens.

In conclusion, The Homebrewer’s Garden is an invaluable resource that combines practical gardening advice with creative brewing techniques. Joe and Dennis Fisher have crafted a guide that is not only informative but also inspiring, encouraging homebrewers to explore the full potential of their craft. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your brewing process with homegrown ingredients, this book is a must-have addition to your brewing library.

My GoodReads Rating: ***
My LibraryThing Rating: ***1/2
Global Average GoodReads Rating: 3.75 (as of 4.30.24)

Homebrewing Recipes

We are circling back to include more homebrew articles. We have gotten some requests for recipes, so we have decided to write them up and post them here. Be sure to check for other Homebrew articles and recipes as well!

Homebrewing Articles

The Ultimate Guide to Homebrewing: Tips, Tricks, and Best Practices for 2024

Other Book Reviews

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Beer Education: Series Overview

Thu, 28 May 2020 14:30:00 +0000

Well, like I said at the end of Module Ten, I would do a series wrap-up afterwards. If you’ve followed along, and if you have done the program / MOOC as well, we are all done now. It took roughly two months to get it completed, as my first post about the Series was on March 26th and I finished the class and Module Ten on May 26th. So two months from start of the blog about it to the end of the actual module, and another day or so for this final wrap-up. Not bad, and an interesting way to pass the time, especially during this quarantine and lockdown.

Speaking of that, things are progressively re-opening here in Central PA area, as well as in the nation as a whole. We’ll see how that goes, and with fingers crossed, maybe soon we’ll be sharing a pint together at a brewery.

As I said from the beginning of the series, I was doing this class without the certificate, so all of the ‘verified track learner’ pages and assessments were off limits to me. I would love to hear from anyone in the comments section who took the full version of the class, and paid for the certificate and got to see the verified track learner’s content pages. My take on that is this though – the certificate would be NICE to have, and would LOOK good… but, it is ultimately unneeded. The information learned is the real value, and any brewery that you are looking to use this for, will most likely be happy with you having the knowledge over the piece of paper. (Of course, the piece of paper would help a bit more, but I don’t think its a massive jump in ‘helping’ or value.) Brewing, and brewery industry jobs, are kind of still in a medieval sense, or in a ‘wild west’ kind of territory. Most breweries are opened with the owner being the head brewer (for craft breweries in America), and most of them got their start home brewing. So you have a lot of basically self-taught people opening their own businesses who learned by home brewing, not professionally. Now, this isn’t always the case, but it seems to happen frequently enough to bear out the point.

Thats not to take away from getting the certificate. Doing so will be an addition, and will help you in jobs. But so is just taking this class. Just show some proof of doing it, and answer questions and show your knowledge. There is other free (and pay-for) resources and certificates online, getting some of them will help as well.

So lets recap the course a bit. There was ten modules, not counting assessments and all that, there was ten modules with different topics for each. In each module was segments, but lets broadly just look at the modules.

Module One: The History of Beer Brewing
Module Two: Barley and Malting
Module Three: Water
Module Four: Hops and Spices
Module Five: Yeast
Module Six: The Steps of the Brewing Process
Module Seven: Fermentation and Maturation
Module Eight: Filtration and Packaging
Module Nine: Beer Quality and Stability
Module Ten: Beer Assessment and Tasting

In all of the discussion pages, so far, I’ve received two comments / replies back in the actual modules. I will post my comment and the responses here.

First:
My comment: “I find it in interesting in America that especially in the last few years there has been a greater move to go from bottle to can. Likewise from growler to crowler. I actually tend to prefer bottles for the 12oz and 16oz varieties, but prefer crowler (32oz) over the growler (32oz). Can’t exactly place why, perhaps because of a taste difference. Though I’m told by many there is no taste difference, and The Alchemist brewery even says to drink their IPAs from the can rather than from the glass. (I do typically pour into glasses from either can or glass; unless busy grilling or mowing or whatever, then I drink straight from the can or glass.)

Curious what other’s thoughts are on the glass bottle vs. can debate.”

The response:

“By: kr3846

In my opinion cans are the way to go 100% of the time. They are basically mini-kegs. They protect better against light and oxygen way better than crown/ bottles ever could. Which is a good enough reason to deem them the winner out-right. They are lighter weight which cuts down on shipping cost, both as a raw material and as a finished product. This also means they can be packed more cans per truck/ boat which ultimately leads to less consumption of fossil fuels. They are also 1000 times more recyclable than glass. In America, very few if any breweries (if any) are doing glass bottle returns. Plus, with cans you do not have the concerns with breaking glass around swimming pools, patios, backpacking, camping, etc.

I think (in America at least) there is still a stigma about drinking from a can. As if it is ubiquitous with large crappy breweries like AB-InBev. People seem to see drinking from a bottle as the “craft” or “artisanal” option. I wish we would move past this and accept cans as the clearly superior form of packaging they are for all the reasons listed above.

That being said, in the growler/ crowler debate, I think growlers are the way to go for the simple fact that they are re-usable. The single use aspect of crowlers, while convenient, is not very environmentally friendly. I do not have nearly the strong opinions in this debate than I do in the can vs bottle debate.

As for Heady Topper, they say to drink from a can because the beer looks like shit. Or the more “scientific” reason would be to keep the hop compounds contained in the can rather than losing them to the volatility of pouring into a glass.

Cheers!”

Second:
My comment: “Another great module. I have really been enjoying this course! I am learning a lot!

-B. Kline
https://thebeerthrillers.home.blog/“

The response: “By: StijnS (Staff)

Hi Ben,

Thanks for these nice words. We also appreciate that you keep a blog on your progress throughout the MOOC.

Have fun with the last module of the MOOC,

Stijn”

Overall, I really enjoyed the MOOC and the modules were all well done and very informative. The various expert clips were especially interesting and educational. For those, looking to further their beer or brewery knowledge, or looking for something to do (most modules were very quick and not extremely time consuming), or for someone looking for a foot in the door at a brewery or just hoping to better themselves for a brewery position (or one they already have), I would highly recommend this course.

I will be posting more information on possible other classes I do, and others that I’ve done in the past, when I get to the next beer education series, so be on the alert for that. And as we enter June, be ready to see a lot more beer reviews and brewery reviews as places start to open back up.

Until then, please stay safe and healthy, we’re almost there! Cheers!

-B. Kline

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Beer Education: Module Four: Hops and Spices

Wed, 15 Apr 2020 18:19:38 +0000

Finally we’re up to the module all you hop-heads were looking forward to. Module Four: Hops and Spices! I imagine most of you will be caring about the hops of it; not the spices, but both are intricate to brewing (as you will see with this module). So let’s continue our journey and adventure through the Science of Beer Brewing!

Module four starts off, just like the others, with an introduction video. The intro video is by Stijn and is only 1:31. The second page is a 4 minute video introducing hops. As most know, hops are used to bitter, add flavor, and to help stabilize beers. It was also quickly realized in the 11th century that hops also help add to the shelf-life of beer. So between this and the taxation of gruit in Germany, there was a lot more reason and emphasis for brewers to go from using gruit to using hops in brewing. In 1516 the purity laws in Germany reduced the usage of herbs and spices even more.

Hops scientific name is humulus lupulis. (The lupulis or lupulin is the power inside the hop cones.) Hops are primarily cultivated for brewing and beer production (but can also be used for tea, sleep aides, and soap). 75% of hop production and growth takes place in Germany and the United States (primarily in the Yakima Valley).

Only the female plants are used for beer brewing, as they grow the flowers and the cones. Its these cones that have the lupulin (resin) that contains the molecules of interest for brewing. For this reason male hop plants are not grown with the female to prevent pollination. (To learn more about hop growing, I will be posting an article shortly about my own hop growing from my own growing hops this spring. At my house I have Cascade, Centennial, Nugget, and Saaz, and looking at possibly getting more.)

After clicking NEXT, we come to a text page about the role of hops and hop compounds. Characteristics of beer that are altered by hops include: beer bitterness, beer flavor, mouthfeel, foam stability and lacing, improved shelf life, antibacterial properties of the hops, protein precipitation during wort clarification, and phenolic antioxidants.

There are four major hop molecule classes:
* alpha acids – hop bitter acids
* beta acids – not as important due to most being lost during the brewing process
* essential oils – important contributors to the beer’s flavor, bitterness, and aroma
* polyphenols – important for the beer stabilization (haze, foam, lacing)

The page continues with a large chart of the various compounds and their weight (when the hops are still wet). This is followed by a second chart showing what hop compounds are retained in beer (after the brewing process). There is an important note to remember; that beers with dry-hopping (particularly IPAs) the aroma is going to be higher and greater due to the dry-hopping.

Our next page is another text page – hop types and varieties. “The Latin name of the hop plant is Humulus lupus L., belonging to the plant family Cannabaceae (this plant family, for example, also contains the Cannabis plant species!). There are many different hop varieties and around 100 of these are commercially cultivated. New varieties are constantly being bred in order to obtain better growing and resistant plants and hop cones with superior qualities.” (EdX – The Science of Beer Brewing.) Hops are somewhat similar to most seed plants as far as naming, with the heirloom, for example, older hop varieties have a double naming pattern. The first name refers to the origin of the variety and the second name refers to the actual (modern / current) variety. So – example – Hallertau Magnum would be: Hallertau as the geographic origin, and the Magnum refers to the variety of the hop. Some heirloom fruit and vegetable seeds do this as well, or do something similar but naming its pedigree rather than geographic origin. Some more modern and newer hops, have just one name, like Cascade hops, which name comes from the Cascade mountains of Oregon.

The three different classes for hops are: bittering hops, aroma hops (including noble hops), and dual-purpose hops (which; just as the name implies – they contribute to both bittering and aroma). About 60% of hop production is aroma hops, primarily for IPAs and due to IPAs growth in the craft beer sphere.

Before moving on, at the bottom of this page is pull-down tabs for each of the classes, with information and some examples of hops of each type. The next page is a discussion page talking about home brewing and what hops you have used, I posted the following:

I grow my own hops, and love using the types I grow – Cascade, Chinook, Centennial, Nugget, and Saaz. I like making a wet-cone and dry hop IPA at harvest time using the Cascade and Centennial, as well as Chinook. I’ve also done a clone of Troegs’ Nugget Nectar as well.

I have pictures of my hops on my blog and the blog’s Facebook page.
https://thebeerthrillers.home.blog/

The following page is a three-question (true or false) quiz.

Moving on, we come to the alpha acids. And we’re starting to get into some ‘real science’ here. This page has the molecule diagrams, and discusses what acids and molecules are in the alpha acids and in the hops.

The five alpha acid molecules found in hop resin are cohumulone, humulone, adhumulone, prehumulone and posthumulone. These molecules differ only slightly from each other in their molecular structures depending on the side chain at the C2 position (see table). The most important alpha acids are cohumulone and humulone. Their content can be up to 50% of the total alpha acid fraction. Adhumulone is the third most important alpha acid representing around 10-15% of alpha acids across different varieties. Each of these molecules results in a different type or quality of bitterness. Cohumulone is for example believed to contribute to a rough and harsh bitterness. Therefore, the cohumulone content of bitter hops can be high, while a high fraction is not desired for aroma hops.
Alpha acids are commonly present in the range of 2 up to 20% (w/w) of the hop cone content. Importantly, these alpha acids themselves are not causing bitterness, they are the precursors. Only during boiling, the alpha acids are converted into iso-alpha acids (isomers of the respective alpha acids) via a thermal isomerization reaction (acyloin-type ring contraction). These iso-alpha acids are the principal source of bitterness in beer. In addition, iso-alpha acids are more soluble in water compared to the alpha acid precursors.
EdX: The Science of Beer Brewing – Alpa Acids

As you might have guessed, the next page is about the beta acids, and is similar, showing the chemical chains and discussing their molecular makeups. Both of these pages are fascinating with their diagrams of the chemical structures and the nuance knowledge it provides about these alpha and beta acids in hops.

The next page is ‘intermezzo on determining beer bitterness’ and is a text page. This page discusses determining beer bitterness and figuring out a beer’s IBU. An important note at the end of the page: “Importantly, IBU values do not necessarily match the bitterness as it is actually perceived when drinking the beer. Perceived bitterness can be influenced by for example, alcohol level, residual sugars and the use of roasted malts. ” (EDX – Science of Beer Brewing.)

Our next page is about essential oils – and no, its not that crap your wife’s friend Karen keeps trying to sell her; this is about hops essential oils. This is a very long page, with a large chart, followed by pull tabs of lots of information. This is followed up by a page on polyphenols. After this is a tough quiz, so you better have studied.

We next have an expert clip from Professor Thomas Shellhammer about dry hopping. After his informative 8 minute video is a 3 minute video by Stijn about hopping techniques. There is then a few pull tabs of information, and another video by Stijn – summary.

The next page is all about hop products. It discusses hop pellets, hop extracts, pre-isomerised hop products, reduced pre-isomerised hop products, and hop aroma products. The next page is another quiz.

The following page is a verified track learner page about ‘favorite hops’ and ‘popular hops’. After that is a discussion page on spices before we get into the spices segment of this module.

Spices have been used since beer was first brewed, but really used in medieval times. They were used for preserving the beer a bit longer, aroma, flavor, and to mask off-flavors. Some popular spices were: juniper, anise seeds, caraway and coriander seeds. Gruit was especially popular during this time (pre-hops). Some spices that would have been a part of gruit was: yarrow root, juniper berries, ginger, sage and rosemary. We still commonly use spices in Belgian beers, particularly witbiers, these spices are: coriander seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, and orange peel. Regional and seasonal beers will often use seasonal spices and flavors (like yam / pumpkin beers and winter warmers).

There is a lengthy chart at the bottom of this page, detailing what spices can be used (or at least what are commonly used), how they are used, what part is used, the flavor they impart, beer examples, and some bonus comments.

Clicking NEXT we come to a page with the aroma compounds of spices. This page lists their chemical structures, aroma compounds, and where these compounds are found. After this, we have a 3 minute expert clip from Dr. Gert De Rouck about spices. This is followed by a 4 minute video for the ‘Do It Yourself’ experiment for this module.

Following the video is a discussion about the experiment; I wrote:

I took a pretty non-descript pale ale brewed by a friend homebrewer that didn’t have much more than just a “Mr Beer” flavor kit to it, so it was relatively bland (but fine and acceptable beer). I experimented using coca nibs and vanilla to try and give it a bit of a cookies and cream flavor to it (or at least a punch in that direction).

I was amazed at how it did certainly pick up those flavors. Though I don’t think taste-wise it turned out necessarily the best, but it did definitely pick up the flavors of the nibs and vanilla.

After this is a verified track learner page (spiced beers). Followed by a “quick knowledge check”. After the quiz is a page about what materials to collect for Module Five. Following this is the typical ‘overview and check’ page at the end of each module. Then there is an assessment page for verified track learners. After that is the feedback and questions page that ends each module. Once you click NEXT you will be brought to the “congratulations you finished Module Four”. Clicking NEXT again will bring you to the intro page for Module Five.

So follow with me next time when we move onto the next important ingredient in brewing: YEAST.

Cheers everyone!

-B. Kline

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