Harrisburg’s beer history is rich, spanning centuries, from its early brewing days to the modern craft beer renaissance. As I wandered through the stories and places that shaped the city’s brewing legacy, I couldn’t help but feel a connection to the brewmasters who laid the foundation for the thriving scene we enjoy today.

The Early Days: Barnitz Brewery and Beyond

Barnitz Brewery (photo courtesy of Historical Societies)

It’s often said that brewing in Harrisburg dates back to the 18th century. While that might be true in legend, the earliest documented brewery I could trace is the Barnitz Brewery, established in 1831. This was no small operation—Barnitz would later transform into Fink’s Brewery, a name that would outlast most others in the city’s brewing history.

Barnitz was a common name in brewing circles back then. The Barnitz family had breweries all over—Baltimore, York, Lancaster, and even Chambersburg. But it was here in Harrisburg where they left a lasting legacy. By 1862, a young journeyman named Henry Fink was working in the Barnitz Brewery. With a modest $600 investment, Fink and his brother-in-law, Christian Boyer, leased the brewery, producing fourteen barrels of ale and porter a day during the cooler months. By 1865, their output had surged to 4,000 barrels, a testament to the city’s thirst for their “pure unadulterated malt liquors.”

As I walked along Chestnut Street, imagining the bustling brew houses that once lined these roads, I was reminded of the transience of success. Breweries like those of Mary E. German, Leon Cramer, and Philip Gorman had their moment but faded as quickly as they appeared, leaving only faint traces in the annals of Harrisburg’s history.

The Rise of Fink and the Brewing Boom

An antique beer tray with Henry Fink on it. (photo courtesy of Historical Societies)

By the late 19th century, Harrisburg’s brewing scene was alive and kicking. Henry Fink, now the sole proprietor of what had become the Keystone Brewery, was one of the city’s biggest names. His brewery was at the center of Harrisburg’s brewing community, producing lager beer in a new facility he built in 1881.

The 1880s were a time of transformation, not just for Fink but for Harrisburg’s brewing industry as a whole. In 1887, Fink played a crucial role in uniting Pennsylvania brewers against the Brooks High License Law, a state legislature act that threatened their livelihood. His leadership at that meeting solidified his status as a key figure in Harrisburg’s beer history.

Sadly, like many great breweries, Fink’s story ended with Prohibition. Despite a brief revival after the ban on alcohol was lifted, the Keystone Brewery couldn’t withstand the pressures of the Great Depression. By 1934, the brewery had closed its doors, leaving behind only memories and the faint scent of hops that once filled the air.

The Forgotten Breweries: Doehne’s and Graupner’s

While Fink’s Brewery is a name many in Harrisburg might still recognize, others have faded into near obscurity. Take Doehne’s Brewery, for instance. Established in 1862 by George Doehne, this brewery was known for its small but quality production. At its peak, Doehne’s was churning out over 3,000 barrels of beer annually, with innovations like a refrigerated storage house designed by Otto C. Wolf, a renowned brewery architect.

Doehne Brewery (courtesy of Dauphin Historical Society)

Doehne’s story is a classic tale of a family-run operation, with George’s sons taking over after his death. They adapted to the times, even surviving Prohibition by relying on income from rental properties. But as with many small brewers, the pressure to modernize and compete with larger breweries eventually led to their closure in 1939. Today, little remains of Doehne’s, other than the memories and a few rare pieces of breweriana that collectors covet.

Graupner Brewery (Harrisburg Historical Society)

Graupner’s Brewery, another giant in Harrisburg’s brewing history, followed a similar path. Founded by Robert H. Graupner in 1893, it was Harrisburg’s largest brewery at the time, with a capacity to produce 25,000 barrels annually. The brewery’s Elfenweiss and Export beers were local favorites, and the Graupner family remained influential in the city for decades. Yet, even with its success, Graupner’s couldn’t escape the fate that befell so many others. After Prohibition, they struggled to regain their footing, and by 1951, the brewery was sold off and liquidated, closing a significant chapter in Harrisburg’s brewing history.

The Modern Renaissance: Appalachian Brewing Company and Troegs

Appalachian Brewing Company (Harrisburg)

Fast forward to the late 20th century, and Harrisburg saw a resurgence in its brewing tradition. In 1997, Appalachian Brewing Company opened its doors, bringing brewing back to the city after decades of dormancy. Located in a repurposed 19th-century building, Appalachian Brewing Co. (ABC) became a beloved institution, known for its Trail Blaze Organic Brown Ale and Mountain Lager. The brewpub’s success led to expansions in Gettysburg, Camp Hill, and Collegeville, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of Central Pennsylvania’s craft beer scene.

Troegs’ Harrisburg Brewery location (before they moved to Hershey PA)

Just a stone’s throw away, Troegs Brewing Co. also got its start in 1997, founded by brothers John and Chris Trogner. Initially, it was tough to convince locals to switch from mainstream beers, but persistence paid off. Troegs’ HopBack Amber Ale and Troegenator Double Bock quickly became staples, not just in Harrisburg but across the Mid-Atlantic region.

The brothers’ success led to a big move in 2011, when they relocated the brewery to Hershey. This new facility allowed them to scale up production and continue experimenting with their beloved Scratch Beer Series. Though Troegs left the city, their roots remain deeply intertwined with Harrisburg’s brewing history.

A City’s Legacy, A Brewer’s Dream

Panoramic photograph of the Harrisburg Pennsylvania skyline along the Susquehanna River

Harrisburg’s brewing history is a story of passion, perseverance, and the ever-changing tides of fortune. From the early days of Barnitz and Fink to the modern craft beer movement led by ABC and Troegs, the city’s love affair with beer continues to thrive. As I sip on a pint of Appalachian’s Jolly Scot Scottish Ale, I can’t help but feel a deep connection to the brewers who came before, those who laid the foundation for the vibrant scene we enjoy today.

The next time you’re enjoying a local brew, take a moment to toast the brewers of Harrisburg’s past. Their stories, much like their beers, are worth savoring.

(Source: Olde Breweries – Harrisburg)

Articles on the History of Beer

• The Rich History of Beer in Pennsylvania: From Colonial Times to the Craft Beer Revolution
• Hops, History, and Innovation: The Fascinating Tale of the IPA
• The Rise of Craft Lagers in Pennsylvania Brewing
• What is a Lager? Exploring the World’s Most Popular Beer Style
• East Meets West – The Duel of the IPAs: West Coast vs. New England Styles
• Exploring the Bock Beer Style – From Einbeck to Munich
• Unraveling the Brews – The Distinctive Styles and Differences of Lagers and Bocks
• The Lifespan of your IPA – Freshness Counts with Craft Beer
• Unleashing the History of Flying Dog Brewery
• Beer and Philosophy 101 – A Crash Course in Beer and Philosophy (A Confluence of Thought and Taste)
• Unearthing the History of Harrisburg Brewing: From Barnitz to Troegs

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This beer review originally appeared on LetUsDrinkBeer’s blog, I contribute and write occasionally for them. I wrote the review for them first, and just copying here to my blog so I have a version of it on my blog. Please check them out and give them a read. Great articles on their blog, I highly recommend their stuff! (LetUsDrinkBeer – Pandemic Pils [Boneshire Brew Works].)

Welcome back, and sorry its been a while since I’ve gotten to post here on LetsDrinkBeer’s blog. This is Ben (or B. Kline) from The Beer Thrillers and I’m glad to be back. This whole coronavirus / COVID-19 thing has definitely been hectic for everyone. Here in Pennsylvania, we’ve had a color coded system. Every county started in red, then could move to yellow, and then finally to green. My county, Dauphin county, home to Harrisburg, Hershey, and subsequently breweries like Boneshire Brew Works, Troegs Brewing, Moo-Duck Brewery, The Millworks, ZeroDay Brewing, and Newfangled Brew Works (as well as the soon to open Rubber Soul Brewery in Hummelstown), hit yellow (and will go green on Friday – June 19th). This meant that breweries could do outdoor seating (limited capacity, and following CDC guidelines). In green phase, if they so wish, they can do indoor seating as well.

So, with the beautiful weather, and missing my favorite breweries, I met my buddy out and finally had myself a socially distanced brewery beer. And what better beer to have than Pandemic Pils by Boneshire Brew Works.

Beer: Pandemic Pils
Brewery: Boneshire Brew Works
Style: Pilsner – German
ABV: 5.5%
IBU: (None)
Untappd Description: Traditional German Pilsner! That’s right a beer that tastes like beer. Crisp and refreshing and just in time for the warm weather. Our first official lager…enjoy!

For those not in the know, Boneshire Brew Works is a great little small brewery pretty much right in my backyard. It sits near the end of the outskirts of Harrisburg, almost going into Hummelstown. They are one of my favorite local breweries and I’ve tried my best to support them throughout this crazy situation going on with the pandemic. As per Untappd they are a microbrewery with 139 unique beers and an overall global average rating of 3.82.

I will admit to not being the hugest Pilsner / lager fan, but I did enjoy this. And on a warm, sunny, day, I can definitely enjoy a “crisp boi” (as all the cool kids nowadays would say). I like to look at and review beers based on their styles, not my personal preferences, and I also love trying a wide variety of styles, even ones I’m not a huge huge fan of – spice is the variety of life… or… ….vice versa? Ah heck, who knows….

Appearance is a beautiful crisp, light yellow, lager style coloring. Its see-through, and fully transparent, with nice bubbles, and a small but carbonated foam head. It has the tell-tale fizziness of a carbonated lager, and it has all the characteristics and appeal of a German pilsner. Beautiful beer. (There is just something to be said for a nice, pretty, clear beer.)

Aroma is spot on for a pilsner as well. Light, airy, nothing extreme, no hop aroma, no fruityness, no weird off notes. You get the pilsner malt and the oats. There’s not a whole lot to hide or take note of here; it smells like a well made pilsner, which means it smells like a much better version of a Lite beer (glares at certain macros…. you know who you are…). Quite a few local breweries in PA (Pennsylvania) have well made lagers and pilsners, and I would hold this right up with the rest of them.

Taste is delicious. Its crisp, its golden, its refreshing, its cool, its a beer that tastes like beer. Its exactly as it says it should be. What do you want from a German Pilsner? Because this is exactly it. Great clean crisp pilsner malt and oats, nice mouthfeel, nothing cloying, no off flavors, no esters mucking about, just a perfectly well made beer in exactly its style and guidelines. You could easily hammer back a six pack or even twelve pack of these bad boys on a day watching the Phillies play or mowing the yard, or betting on your daughter’s softball game…. I mean…. watching your daughter’s softball team play….. (……shifty eyes….). This isn’t a heavy beer, nor is it light and watery, and with its 5.5% ABV it doesn’t hit you at all until you’re on beer #3 or #4 or depending on your size and tolerance #5 (6?). I certainly enjoyed this, and can only highly recommend it if your in the Harrisburg area of Pennsylvania. It is currently on draft at Boneshire Brew Works, as well as currently available to go in 4pks and also growler fills. Boneshire Brew Works also just released a new version of their English Curse – this time jazzed up with coffee, so definitely check that out as well if you are in the area. You won’t be disappointed, I promise you that!

My Untappd Rating: ****
Global Untappd Rating: 3.92 (as of 6.13.20)

Thank you all for reading, and sorry its been quite so long. Things have certainly been hectic in my neck of the woods, but its looking like we are starting to come back to some semblance of normal (well, a new normal). My job is starting back up on Friday the 19th, but with so many questions yet to be answered. I hope you all had a very safe and productive time if you were in quarantine or locked down. And as always, I certainly hope you’ve been safe and sound from the virus. If you are ever in the Harrisburg area, look me up, would gladly hangout for a beer or two or three; especially once all this silly nonsense comes to an end.

You can check out my beer blog at – The Beer Thrillers; as well as find us on Facebook and Twitter.

I have been very busy over the lockdown, taking a beer science course and covering it on my blog – Beer Education: The Series. As well as doing beer reviews and covering closings.

So please check us out! Thanks!

Cheers!

-B. Kline
The Beer Thrillers

Dr. Alison Feeney has recently published and released a book, called For the Love of Beer: Pennsylvania’s Breweries (clicking the link will take you directly to the book page on Amazon where you can purchase the book). In celebration of this and to kick off the Harrisburg Book Week and Festival she spoke (alongside Hannah Ison of ZeroDay Brewing Company and Jeff Mussleman of The Millworks) at the Mid-Town Scholar. The speakers talked from 7PM to 8PM with a beer tasting before hand from 6:30-7PM and afterwards from 8-8:30PM (times being rough estimates). Dr. Alison Feeney also signed copies of her book purchased at the Mid-Town Scholar. The Facebook event listing can be found here: For the Love of Beer – Speakers Conference and Symposium.

Dr. Alison Feeney is the professor of geography and earth science at Shippensburg University. A press release from the university about her book can be found here: Dr. Alison Feeney Releases a New Book. Shippensburg University has started up several courses and classes based on brewing, home brewing, the science behind brewing and making beer, as well as many adult classes (enrichment and for the work force and industry) based around beer and brewing. They were given a $70K grant to “boost beer brewers” and provide the education to make this possible. This grant was given by the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB). To learn more about their brew science you can click here for the inquiry form to receive information. They are serving both the industry with these classes as well as home brewers looking to better their own craft for their own enjoyment. Shippensburg University cultivates future brewers : Home Brew Course Success. A listing of their courses, online information, and Shippensburg created articles about their brewing programs and classes can be found here: Shippensburg University Brewing Education.

So there is a lot to be excited for with the brewing future thanks to Shippensburg University and with Pennsylvania being such an integral part to the craft beer and brewing industry as a whole there is much to be excited for with the future of the hundreds of breweries in Pennsylvania. If you’ve been to just a few breweries in Pennsylvania, it might feel like you’ve been to a lot, but I guarantee you haven’t even scratched the surface. Pennsylvania is currently home to 300+ breweries and it is constantly a number in flux with openings, closings, and expansions. Thankfully there are far more openings than closings, but sadly there is some closings. Some websites and groups like Breweries in PA keep an updated list and map of all of the breweries in Pennsylvania operating.

The back of the book, as well as the Amazon description for Dr. Alison Feeney’s book is:

“Pennsylvanians have enjoyed a long, rich love affair with beer. The state not only ranks first in the nation for the number of barrels produced but the breweries, beer, and their craftsmen all have interesting stories to tell. This book examines Pennsylvania s brewing history, geography, and cultural richness while highlighting over 100 of the states thriving craft breweries. It explains some of the enjoyable stories and local legends behind the naming of beers, while detailing the unique buildings and architectural treasures that contribute to the renovation of urban areas and revival of small communities. Short descriptions of each brewery provide the reader with an understanding of which brewers use local hops, fruits, and grains in their recipes and how proceeds support local rail trails, waterways, animals shelters, and community events. From long-lasting breweries that survived Prohibition to the most recent openings with upscale food and cutting edge technology, this book describes how craft breweries in Pennsylvania have something to offer everyone. Set out on the road and record your visit to each brewery and enjoy first-hand facts about local breweries with someone who lives, works, and studies this fascinating and dynamic industry. “

Dr. Alison Feeney’s biography on Amazon reads:

“Alison Feeney is a Professor in the Geography and Earth Science Department at Shippensburg University. She earned B. A. degrees in both history and geography from the University of Connecticut, a M.S from Portland State University, and a Ph.D. from Michigan State University. She truly loves to blend work with pleasure as she travels around Pennsylvania to research breweries.

When she is not working she enjoys time with her friends and family riding bikes, playing tennis, snowboarding, kayaking, and learning to sail. Her passion for coral reefs leads her on several trips to the Caribbean each year to scuba dive and kill invasive lionfish. “

Just like most people, I love hearing people in an industry speak and talk about their industry. Shows like Seinfeld’s “Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee” and things like that are fascinating to me. To hear those who create discuss their creations, and those who do discussing their …. doings. So getting to hear Dr. Alison Feeney, Hannah Ison, and Jeff Musselman discuss their works and creations and their businesses (writing, brewing, owning a brewery), was a definite must for me.

I dropped my youngest off at her cheerleading practice at 5:45 in Hummelstown (don’t worry, her grandparents were picking her up, she wasn’t going to get left there), and I then went downtown. Arrived and parked by Mid-Town at about 6:15 (slow and go on I-83 due to the rain). Checked out the Mid-Town Scholar’s Tent Book Sale (which is going on today; Friday – as well as Saturday and Sunday). After finding a few books (I could literally buy thousands if I really had the energy to, but decided on just a few) I purchased them and then took them back to the car before heading over to the Mid-Town Scholar itself. Got inside around 6:30 and went up to the sample table immediately. Grabbed the Oktoberfest by The Millworks to begin my browsing of the store (my first time ever being inside it). Independent bookstores are such a low-level thrill (ok…. big high level thrill, but it just doesn’t sound as cool to say) for me. Browsing through endless aisles and tables at places like this, like The York Emporium, or at independent bookstores at beaches, is just love. Independent bookstores are losing more and more to the tide of places like Amazon, Wal-Mart, etc. in a similar way to how craft breweries have to constantly fight against InBev and Miller Coors; small independent bookstores have to fight against these giants. Sadly, where craft beer is doing pretty well (as a whole) against their large titan competitors, independent bookstores aren’t. So we all need to shop local, shop independent, shop individual, shop craft, over macro, over major, over non-caring owners, over-CEOs raking in $8Billion a year for themselves while paying employees 8.50$ an hour with minimal benefits.

(Ok, small rant over. Stepping down from my soap box.)

Grabbed another sample, this time “When Did We Get a Dog?” by ZeroDay. I had the watermelon version of this recently (at the RenFaire Brewfest). I then made my purchases (picked up Dr. Alison Feeney’s book, as well as The Rebel by Albert Camus, since I read it back in high school, loaned it out to a friend, who promptly lost it, and I’ve been meaning to give his canon and collection a re-read, so might as well start with lost Camus). I then grabbed a third sample – Single Hop Series #11 – Citra Hops – by The Millworks, and took my seat, third row to the right.

A worker for Mid-Town Scholar introduced the panel (sitting from left to right – Sara Bozich, Dr. Alison Feeney, Hannah Ison, and Jeffrey Musselman), and introduced the Harrisburg Book Week Festival, and discussed the slew of speakers they were having over the next several days, and mentioned the book sale tent outside, among other things.

Sara Bozich then took over as moderator and ran the panel (I guess panel is better term for it, than conference, or symposium, or motley crew, or whatever terminology one might use). She began introducing the members on the stage and discussed Dr. Alison Feeney’s work at Shippensburg and a barebones description of the book.

Sara Bozich asked several questions of the panel that related to central themes to breweries and those in the book; like community, revitalization, diversity, the beer itself, and breweries in general.

Hannah and Jeff then talked about some future projects for their breweries and themselves (Hannah soon welcoming a child into the world, December due date; Jeff with The Millworks opening a second location in Camp Hill, hopefully spring 2020).

After about forty minutes or so of the panel they opened it up to an audience Q&A to close out the last twenty minutes. There was a wide range of questions during the Q&A. Topics ranging from women in the work force, diversity, things to know about as a brewer (like any head brewer will tell you, the job is mostly sanitation, cleaning, cleaning, cleaning), the new Pennsylvania brewery tax, Untappd, favorite beers/breweries/styles, and the last question went out to a woman who talked about community displacement. Like breweries coming in and displacing the current population. This possibly provided the most interesting question of the night. Dr. Alison Feeney discussed how Yards opening their giant new production and tap facility in Philadelphia, where once was a very urbanized and African-American central area, now has very few African-Americans, and that the lines into the brewery are predominantly white people (typically white males). Jeff discussed how despite what they are doing, craft beer is essentially a completely luxury, even moreso than macro beer. That beer in general is a luxury item, craft beer especially so. Where a pint might run 6-8 or even 10 dollars, compared to Bud Light or Miller Lite or Coors Lite always being 2-4$. And unfortunately there is no easy answer to this. Its a fine line to create a new thriving business where something didn’t exist before, and as much as a place (be it a brewery or any new business) wants to identify and become one with the community, there is going to be a change with that new business going in, and that business will already have its own clientele established before opening its doors, and that might not align with the local community one hundred percent.

After the Q&A the Mid-Town employee went over the panel one last time, and talked about the weekend’s events again, as well as brought up the beer tasting and book signing to follow.

During this part of the tasting I had the Watermelon When Did We Get a Dog?, the Mango Habenero staple from ZeroDay, and one last Oktoberfest while standing around chatting with Dr. Alison, Hannah, and Jeff.

Saying goodbye to the panelists (and their respective special persons) I dropped my books bag off at the car and walked a block and a half over to The Millworks brewery and enjoyed myself a flight of some of their recent beers, including two ‘PA Preferred’ beers, just discussed during the panel.

This was a wonderful two hour (ish) event with dedicated individuals who wanted to talk about their works, be it the author – Dr. Alison Feeney – or the brewers – Jeff Musselman and Hannah Ison or Sara Bozich who has helped collaborate and set up the Harrisburg Beer Week as well as many other events and activities in the Harrisburg area. The dedication, interest, and love for their work and the works of others, and for community, and for what craft beer and brewing can stand for was evident from all, and it showed in their talks.

I highly recommend picking up For the Love of Beer by Dr. Alison Feeney, I’ve begun reading it (started there at the bar at The Millworks) and I’m currently about thirty pages in (don’t worry, there will be a book review on here when completed), and I am enjoying it, and it is very informative.

Please keep checking out the blog, make sure you like, subscribe, follow, comment, etc, we have a lot of exciting things coming out in the upcoming days, some even sponsored by breweries and lots of fun events. So make sure you keep up to date and check in on us daily, as we are looking to be posting daily!

Until next time, keep the brain sharp with books, and the liver busy with beer!

-B. Kline