Barley - The Beer Thrillers

How to Brew Barleywine: A Comprehensive Guide

B. Kline — Mon, 09 Jun 2025 19:55:03 +0000

How to Brew Barleywine: A Comprehensive Guide

Brewing a high‑gravity beer like barleywine is an exciting challenge—it demands more time, ingredients, and patience compared to lighter styles. If you’re brewing all‑grain, be aware that your yield will likely be reduced because of the heavier grain bill.

A homebrewed Barleywine. Titan’s Tribute.

(See our article: Titan’s Tribute Barleywine (Homebrew Recipe) )

1. Grain Bill & Specialty Malts

Start with a substantial base malt—lights such as 2‑row barley or Maris Otter—and add specialty malts (e.g., crystal, caramel) to boost flavor and color. You’ll need much more grain than for standard beers.

2. Extract Brewing Alternative

If you prefer extract brewing, supplement your base malt extract with specialty grains for complexity. This simplifies the process while still producing rich malt flavors.

3. Water & Mash

Use a balanced water profile. For American-style barleywine, consider blending reverse-osmosis and tap water. Adding chloride enhances malt smoothness, while some sulfate (100–200 ppm) can help dry out the finish. Aim for a mash temperature around 152–156 °F to retain fermentable sugars but still allow body.

4. Boil & Hops

A long, vigorous boil (90 minutes or more) intensifies caramelization and concentrates the wort. Hops are essential—not only to balance the massive malt bill but also to define whether your wine leans English (more restrained hops) or American (bold, citrusy hops).

5. Yeast & Fermentation

Choose a robust yeast strain capable of achieving high attenuation. Pitch enough yeast and consider a starter to ensure a healthy fermentation. With high gravity, a secondary fermentation is recommended to clear and mature the beer.

6. Conditioning & Aging

Patience is vital. Barleywine usually takes months to mellow and develop. Many brewers age their beer for 3–12 months, monitoring flavor evolution—oak aging and bottle conditioning are popular enhancement methods.

7. Style & Serving

English barleywine tends to be rich, malty, and less hoppy, while American versions emphasize hop bitterness and aroma. Expect ABVs in the range of 8–12%. Serve it in snifter glasses to fully appreciate its depth.

(See our fun Facebook post about Barleywines here: The Beer Thrillers – Facebook Post.)

Quick Reference Table

Step	Key Notes
Grain Bill	Plenty of base malt + specialty malts for flavor and color
Water Profile	Balanced ions; some chloride for mouthfeel, sulfate for dryness
Mash Temp	152–156 °F to balance fermentables and body
Boil	90+ minutes to concentrate wort and deepen character
Hops	Use generously—up to 100 + IBUs for American styles
Yeast	High-performance strain; plenty of yeast, consider a starter
Fermentation	Use secondary—gives cleaner, better‑aged beer
Aging	3–12+ months; consider oak or bottle aging for complexity
Serving	Serve in snifter; enjoy slowly to savor its depth

Homebrewing Recipes

We are circling back to include more homebrew articles. We have gotten some requests for recipes, so we have decided to write them up and post them here. Be sure to check for other Homebrew articles and recipes as well!

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What Did the Pilgrims Really Drink at the First Thanksgiving?

B. Kline — Thu, 28 Nov 2024 15:38:48 +0000

What Did the Pilgrims Really Drink at the First Thanksgiving?

As we gather around our tables this Thanksgiving, raising glasses filled with craft beer, wine, or cider, it’s natural to wonder: what did the Pilgrims drink at the first Thanksgiving? The answer might surprise you, and it’s not as straightforward as you might think.

The First Thanksgiving Dinner and Drinks (photo courtesy of the Smithsonian Magazine)

The Myth of the Pilgrim’s Beer

Contrary to popular belief, the Pilgrims likely didn’t have beer at the first Thanksgiving in 1621. This misconception stems from clever marketing campaigns by beer companies in the early 20th century, particularly after the repeal of Prohibition. The United States Brewers Association even claimed, “It was beer, not turkey, that lured the Pilgrims to Plymouth Rock” – a statement that’s more fiction than fact.

What They Actually Drank

The Pilgrims and Their Drinks

Water: The Simple Staple

Believe it or not, water was likely the primary beverage at the first Thanksgiving. The Plymouth area had abundant clean water from freshwater streams and springs, making it a reliable and safe option for the Pilgrims.

Hard Cider: A Possible Treat

While not certain, there’s a chance that hard cider made an appearance at the feast. The Pilgrims were familiar with cider from England, and they may have used wild apples found in the New World to ferment a small batch.

Why No Beer?

Several factors contributed to the absence of beer at the first Thanksgiving:

Lack of Ingredients: The Pilgrims hadn’t yet established crops for brewing, particularly barley.
Time Constraints: Brewing takes time, and survival was the priority in those early days.
No Brewery: The first recorded brewery license in Massachusetts wasn’t issued until 1637, a full 16 years after the first Thanksgiving.

The Real Story Behind the Pilgrims and Beer

While beer wasn’t at the first Thanksgiving, it did play a crucial role in the Pilgrims’ journey:

Beer was a staple on the Mayflower, with each person allocated about a gallon per day.
The decision to land at Plymouth Rock was partly influenced by dwindling beer supplies.

(See Also: Fall Beers)

A Toast to Simplicity

As craft beer enthusiasts, we might feel a twinge of disappointment that our favorite beverage wasn’t part of the first Thanksgiving. However, the Pilgrims’ simple celebration, likely featuring water and possibly some hard cider, reminds us of the true spirit of the holiday – gratitude for survival and new beginnings. So this Thanksgiving, as you sip your carefully selected craft beer, take a moment to appreciate how far we’ve come. And maybe, just maybe, raise a glass of water in honor of those resourceful Pilgrims who started it all.

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How Much Sugar Is in IPA Beer? A Full Comparison with Other Beer Types

B. Kline — Sat, 12 Oct 2024 03:15:29 +0000

How Much Sugar Is in IPA Beer? A Full Comparison with Other Beer Types

Ever wondered how much sugar is in your favorite IPA compared to other beers? Whether you’re keeping an eye on your carb intake or just curious about what makes each beer unique, understanding sugar content can shed light on the flavors and characteristics of your brew. In this article, we’ll break down the sugar content in IPA beers and compare it with regular, light, and non-alcoholic beers.

Overlook Hazy IPA by New Trail Brewing (photo courtesy of New Trail Brewing Company’s Instagram account)

Following up on our article yesterday – How Much Sugar is in an IPA? A Deep Dive into the Sugar Content of India Pale Ales – today we present our next article in that series: How Much Sugar Is in IPA Beer? A Full Comparison with Other Beer Types. This article will take a much deeper dive into how much sugar is in IPAs vs other beers, specifically light beers and light lagers that most people are used to (Coors Lite, Miller Lite, Budweiser, Bud Lite, etc.). Enjoy!

Key Takeaways: Comparing Sugar Levels in Beer

IPA beers typically contain less than 1 gram of residual sugar per 12-ounce serving due to an extensive fermentation process.
Regular and light beers usually range from 1-6 grams of sugar per 12 ounces, with light beers generally being lower in sugar.
Non-alcoholic beers can contain significantly more sugar—often between 10-15 grams per 12-ounce serving—due to minimal fermentation.

What Contributes to Sugar in Beer?

Beer starts with fermentable sugars from malted grains like barley and wheat. These sugars are broken down during the brewing process and consumed by yeast, which converts them into alcohol and carbon dioxide. However, not all sugars are fermented, leaving behind residual sugars that affect the beer’s sweetness and mouthfeel.

Understanding the sugar content in beer is crucial because it influences both the flavor and alcohol content. More sugar typically means a fuller-bodied beer with higher alcohol content, while less sugar results in a drier, crisper finish.

Sugar Content in IPA Beer: Why It’s Low

A bowl of sugar

IPAs (India Pale Ales) are known for their hop-forward flavors and low sugar content. During brewing, malted barley provides fermentable sugars, while hops add bitterness and aroma. The brewing process converts most sugars into alcohol, leaving less than 1 gram of residual sugar per 12-ounce serving in typical IPAs.

To carbonate IPA beers, brewers either add a small amount of priming sugar before bottling or use force carbonation in cans. In both cases, the extra sugar is minimal and doesn’t significantly impact the beer’s sugar content.

How Different IPA Styles Compare in Sugar Content

IPAs come in several variations, each with different sugar levels:

Regular IPAs: Known for their moderate alcohol content and balanced flavors, regular IPAs generally have less than 1 gram of residual sugar per 12-ounce serving.
Double IPAs (DIPAs): These boast higher alcohol content and start with more fermentable sugars. While most sugars are converted during fermentation, double IPAs often have slightly higher residual sugar levels, ranging from 2-3 grams per serving.
Session IPAs: With lower alcohol content, session IPAs typically have very low sugar content (less than 1 gram per serving), offering a lighter, crisper drinking experience.

IPA vs. Other Beers: How Do They Compare?

IPA vs. Regular Beer

Regular beers tend to have a more balanced malt and hop profile, often leaving 2-6 grams of residual sugar per 12-ounce serving, depending on the style. In contrast, IPAs ferment more sugars, resulting in less than 1 gram of sugar per serving. This makes IPAs a slightly better choice for those watching their sugar intake.

IPA vs. Light Beer

Light beers are brewed to be lower in calories and sugars, often containing less than 1 gram of sugar per 12-ounce serving. They achieve this through the use of adjuncts like rice or corn, which provide fermentable sugars without leaving much residual sugar behind.

While light beers may have a similar sugar profile to IPAs, IPAs generally offer more robust flavors due to their higher hop content and more complex malt base.

IPA vs. Non-Alcoholic Beer

Non-alcoholic beers contain significantly more sugar than IPAs, with levels often ranging between 10-15 grams per 12-ounce serving. Because non-alcoholic beers undergo minimal fermentation, fewer sugars are converted into alcohol, leading to higher residual sugar content.

For those monitoring their sugar intake, non-alcoholic beers may not be the best choice, especially when compared to the relatively low sugar levels found in IPAs.

Why Some Commercial Beers Use Corn Syrup

Mass-produced beers from large global brands often use corn syrup as a fermentable sugar to lower costs and speed up brewing. While corn syrup can increase the sugar content, this practice is almost nonexistent in craft IPAs, which focus on traditional brewing methods using malted barley for sugar sources. As a result, craft IPAs tend to have more complex flavors and lower sugar content compared to commercial lagers that may rely on corn syrup.

The Relationship Between Sugar and Alcohol in Beer

There’s a direct relationship between sugar and alcohol in beer: More sugar leads to more alcohol. As yeast consumes sugars during fermentation, the resulting alcohol content increases while residual sugars decrease. However, higher-alcohol beers, like double IPAs, may still contain a slight amount of residual sugar to balance the intense bitterness of hops.

Keep in mind that higher alcohol content means more calories, so while IPAs might be lower in sugar, they can still pack a calorie punch.

FAQs About Sugar in IPA Beer

Does IPA beer have sugar?

Yes, but most of the sugar in IPA beer is converted into alcohol during fermentation. The residual sugar content is typically less than 1 gram per 12-ounce serving.

How much sugar is in a 12 oz IPA?

A typical 12-ounce IPA contains less than 1 gram of residual sugar, thanks to the fermentation process that consumes most of the sugars.

Is IPA healthier than regular beer?

In terms of sugar content, IPAs usually have less sugar than regular beers. However, IPAs often contain more alcohol and calories, so balance and moderation are important.

Is there a lot of sugar in beer?

Sugar content in beer varies widely by style. Light beers and IPAs generally have low sugar levels (less than 1 gram per serving), while non-alcoholic beers can contain 10-15 grams of sugar per serving.

Final Thoughts: Sugar in IPA Beer and Beyond

When it comes to sugar content, IPAs offer a lower-sugar option compared to many regular and non-alcoholic beers, making them a good choice for those who enjoy bold flavors but want to avoid excess sugar. Whether you prefer a classic IPA, a hop-heavy DIPA, or a session IPA for easy drinking, understanding the sugar content helps you make informed choices. Cheers to discovering what’s inside your favorite brew!

How much Sugar is in IPAs?

Key Takeaways: How IPA Beer Stacks Up in Sugar Content

IPAs have less than 1 gram of sugar per serving.
Non-alcoholic beers can contain 10-15 grams of sugar.
Light beers generally have less than 1 gram of sugar, but with fewer complex flavors than IPAs.

Articles on the History of Beer

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The Beer Thrillers on LinkTree can be found here: The Beer Thrillers LinkTree.

The Beer Thrillers are a blog that prides itself on writing beer reviews, brewery reviews, travelogues, news (especially local to the Central PA brewery scene), as well as covering other topics of our interests – such as hiking, literature and books, board games, and video games which we sometimes stream with our friends over at Knights of Nostalgia. We are currently listed as #5 on FeedSpot’s “Top 100 Beer Blogs” and #9 on FeedSpot’s “Top 40 Pennsylvania Blogs”. (As of August 2024.) Thank you for reading our site today, please subscribe, follow, and bookmark. Please reach out to us if you are interested in working together. If you would like to donate to the blog you can here: Donate to The Beer Thrillers. Thank you!

If you would like to reach out to us for product reviews, beer reviews, press release writing, and other media – please contact us at thebeerthrillers@gmail.com. Thank you.

How Much Sugar is in IPA? A Deep Dive into the Sugar Content of India Pale Ales

B. Kline — Thu, 10 Oct 2024 13:37:59 +0000

How Much Sugar is in IPA? A Deep Dive into the Sugar Content of India Pale Ales

An IPA with hops at a craft brewery’s bar

India Pale Ales (IPAs) are beloved for their bold flavors and adventurous spirit, but many beer drinkers wonder: how much sugar is in an IPA? Whether you’re health-conscious or just curious, understanding the sugar content in your favorite IPA can be eye-opening. Spoiler alert—it’s lower than you might think!

Key Takeaways:

IPAs are low in sugar due to the fermentation process where yeast converts most sugars into alcohol.
Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity (FG) are essential in understanding how much sugar remains in the final product.
Despite the sugar-rich wort, IPAs end up with very low residual sugar while maintaining bold, complex flavors.

What is the Sugar Content in IPA Beer?

For anyone counting calories or carbs, knowing the sugar content in your IPA matters. The good news is that most IPAs have very little sugar left by the time they reach your glass. But let’s break down why that is and how it happens.

The Fermentation Process Explained

The brewing process of IPAs starts with four main ingredients: malted grains (like barley), hops, water, and yeast. After malting and mashing the grains, a sugar-rich liquid called wort is created. However, during fermentation, yeast consumes most of these sugars and converts them into alcohol and carbon dioxide.

This is why, despite starting with a sugar-rich wort, the final sugar content in an IPA is minimal. Yeast works hard to convert the majority of the sugars into alcohol, leaving behind very little residual sugar.

Original Gravity (OG) vs. Final Gravity (FG)

Two key measurements in brewing tell us a lot about sugar: Original Gravity (OG) and Final Gravity (FG). OG measures the sugar content before fermentation, and FG measures it after fermentation. The larger the difference between these two, the more sugar was converted into alcohol, meaning lower residual sugar in the beer.

The Types of Sugars in IPAs and How They Differ from Other Beers

Wort going through the brewing process

The sugars in beer primarily come from malt, but not all sugars behave the same way during brewing. The main sugar, maltose, is highly fermentable, which is why most of it gets converted into alcohol. Other sugars, like oligosaccharides, are less fermentable, contributing to the beer’s mouthfeel and sweetness.

While IPAs are known for their hop-forward character, they do have slightly more residual sugars than lighter beers, thanks to the brewing process. However, even double IPAs, which start with a higher sugar content, end up with low residual sugar due to efficient fermentation.

Comparing Sugar Content in IPAs vs. Regular and Light Beers

So how do IPAs stack up against other types of beers? Here’s a breakdown:

Regular Beers: Typically contain moderate amounts of residual sugar, around 10-12 grams of carbs, but with very little sugar remaining after fermentation.
Light Beers: Often crafted to be low in both calories and carbs, light beers have as little as 2-5 grams of carbs, with very low sugar content.
IPAs and Double IPAs: Due to their robust hop and malt profiles, IPAs can have around 15-20 grams of carbs per serving. However, the sugar content remains low, generally less than 1 gram of residual sugar per 12-ounce serving.

Why Some Commercial Beers Have More Sugar

It’s important to note that mass-produced beers sometimes use corn syrup as a fermentable sugar to speed up the brewing process and cut costs. This can increase the sugar content, but it’s a practice more common in commercial brands than craft beers like IPAs, which typically rely on traditional ingredients like malted barley.

FAQs About Sugar in IPA Beer

Does IPA Beer Contain Sugar?

Yes, IPA contains sugar, but most of it is consumed by yeast during fermentation, leaving very little residual sugar in the final beer.

How Many Grams of Sugar Are in a 12 oz IPA?

A typical 12 oz IPA contains less than 1 gram of residual sugar due to the fermentation process.

Is IPA a Healthier Beer Option?

IPAs can be considered healthier in terms of sugar content compared to many other alcoholic beverages. However, they may be higher in calories and alcohol content.

What Beer Has the Lowest Sugar Content?

Light beers tend to have the lowest sugar content, with some containing as little as 0 grams of sugar per serving.

Conclusion: IPAs Offer Bold Flavor, Not Sugar

While IPAs may pack a punch in terms of flavor and hops, they don’t pack a sugary punch. The brewing process, particularly fermentation, ensures that most of the sugars in IPA are converted to alcohol. This makes IPAs a low-sugar beer option, especially when compared to mass-produced commercial beers.

The next time you enjoy a pint, you can do so with the knowledge that your IPA isn’t loaded with sugar—just bold, delicious flavors.

Articles on the History of Beer

Thank You For Reading

If you like this article, please check out our other many articles, including news, beer reviews, travelogues, maps, and much much more. We greatly appreciate everyone visiting the site!

Cheers.

MAPS OF BREWERIES

You can check out our different directories here: Beer Reviews, Hike Reviews, Book Reviews, Brewery News, Brewery Openings, Brewer Interviews, and Travelogues.

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The Beer Thrillers on LinkTree can be found here: The Beer Thrillers LinkTree.

The Beer Thrillers are a blog that prides itself on writing beer reviews, brewery reviews, travelogues, news (especially local to the Central PA brewery scene), as well as covering other topics of our interests – such as hiking, literature and books, board games, and video games which we sometimes stream with our friends over at Knights of Nostalgia. We are currently listed as #5 on FeedSpot’s “Top 100 Beer Blogs” and #9 on FeedSpot’s “Top 40 Pennsylvania Blogs”. (As of August 2024.) Thank you for reading our site today, please subscribe, follow, and bookmark. Please reach out to us if you are interested in working together. If you would like to donate to the blog you can here: Donate to The Beer Thrillers. Thank you!

If you would like to reach out to us for product reviews, beer reviews, press release writing, and other media – please contact us at thebeerthrillers@gmail.com. Thank you.

Book Review: The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs (Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher)

B. Kline — Tue, 30 Apr 2024 04:15:31 +0000

The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher

Homebrewing

Homebrewing is a fascinating and rewarding hobby that allows beer enthusiasts to create their own unique brews from the comfort of their homes. The process involves combining basic ingredients—malted grains, hops, yeast, and water—in specific ways to produce a wide variety of beer styles. Homebrewing offers an incredible amount of creative freedom, as brewers can experiment with different ingredients and techniques to craft beers that match their personal tastes and preferences. This DIY approach not only deepens one’s appreciation for the art and science of brewing but also provides a sense of accomplishment with each successful batch.

The journey of homebrewing typically begins with selecting a recipe and gathering the necessary equipment and ingredients. Beginner brewers often start with extract brewing, which uses malt extract to simplify the process. This method requires less equipment and shorter brew times, making it accessible for newcomers. As brewers gain experience and confidence, many transition to all-grain brewing, which involves mashing malted grains to extract fermentable sugars. All-grain brewing offers greater control over the beer’s flavor and body, allowing for more nuanced and complex brews. Essential equipment for homebrewing includes a large kettle, fermenter, airlock, thermometer, hydrometer, and bottling supplies.

The brewing process itself is a blend of science and art. It begins with mashing, where crushed grains are soaked in hot water to convert starches into sugars. The resulting liquid, called wort, is then boiled, and hops are added at various stages to impart bitterness, flavor, and aroma. After boiling, the wort is rapidly cooled and transferred to a fermenter, where yeast is added to begin fermentation. During this stage, which can last from a few days to several weeks, the yeast consumes the sugars in the wort, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. Monitoring and maintaining proper fermentation temperatures is crucial for ensuring the desired characteristics of the final beer.

After fermentation, the beer is typically conditioned for a period to develop its flavors and carbonation. This can be done in bottles or kegs, with the addition of a small amount of sugar or pressurized CO2 to create carbonation. Patience is key during this phase, as conditioning can take several weeks, but the wait is usually well worth it. Once conditioning is complete, the beer is ready to be enjoyed. Homebrewers often take pride in sharing their creations with friends and family, and the feedback received can be invaluable for refining future batches.

One of the most exciting aspects of homebrewing is the community that comes with it. Homebrewers are a passionate and supportive group, often eager to share tips, recipes, and experiences. Many cities have homebrew clubs where members can exchange knowledge and sample each other’s beers. Online forums and social media groups also provide a wealth of information and camaraderie. Whether brewing solo or with a group, homebrewing is a hobby that fosters creativity, learning, and a deeper appreciation for the craft of beer making. It’s a journey filled with experimentation, occasional challenges, and the ultimate reward of enjoying a beer that’s truly your own.

Growing Hops

Growing hops is a rewarding endeavor for homebrewers looking to infuse their beer with fresh, homegrown ingredients. Hops are the flowers of the hop plant (Humulus lupulus), and they play a crucial role in brewing by adding bitterness, flavor, and aroma to beer. The first step in growing hops is selecting the right variety based on your climate and the flavor profile you desire. Popular varieties like Cascade, Centennial, and Chinook are favored by many brewers for their versatility and distinctive characteristics. Hops require a sunny location with well-drained soil, and they thrive in temperate climates with long days during the growing season.

Once you’ve chosen your hop varieties, the next step is planting. Hops are typically grown from rhizomes, which are root cuttings taken from mature plants. Plant the rhizomes in early spring, about 4-6 inches deep, and space them about 3 feet apart to give each plant plenty of room to grow. As hops are vigorous climbers, it’s essential to provide a sturdy trellis or support system for the bines (the stems of the hop plant) to climb. Regular watering, especially during dry periods, and mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and keep the roots cool.

Caring for hops involves regular maintenance to ensure healthy growth and a bountiful harvest. Hops can grow up to 20 feet in a single season, so training the bines to climb the trellis is crucial. Pruning the lower leaves and shoots encourages airflow and reduces the risk of disease. Hops are susceptible to pests such as aphids and spider mites, as well as diseases like powdery mildew. Regular inspection and prompt treatment with appropriate organic or chemical controls can help manage these issues. By late summer, the hop cones will begin to ripen, and you’ll know they are ready to harvest when they feel dry and papery, and the lupulin glands inside the cones are a vibrant yellow. After harvesting, the hops should be dried and stored properly to preserve their qualities for brewing.

Book Review: The Homebrewer’s Garden: How to Easily Grow, Prepare, and Use Your Own Hops, Malts, Brewing Herbs by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher

GoodReads Blurb:

Grow a beer garden! Enhance the flavor, aroma, and personality of your homebrew by cultivating your own hops, herbs, and malt grains. With expert advice on choosing and maintaining the best plants for your needs, Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher show you how to turn a small patch of backyard, or even a few window boxes, into a renewable brewing supply store. Discover the satisfaction that comes from brewing tasty beers using fresh homegrown ingredients.

GoodReads – The Homebrewer’s Garden

The Homebrewer’s Garden by Joe Fisher and Dennis Fisher is an essential guide for any homebrewer looking to elevate their craft by cultivating their own ingredients. This comprehensive manual covers the entire process of growing, preparing, and utilizing hops, malts, and brewing herbs, making it a valuable resource for both novice and experienced brewers who wish to take a hands-on approach to their beer-making.

One of the book’s greatest strengths is its detailed and practical advice on gardening techniques tailored specifically for brewing ingredients. The Fishers draw from their extensive experience to provide step-by-step instructions on planting, nurturing, and harvesting hops and other plants. They also include information on soil preparation, pest management, and seasonal care, ensuring that readers have all the tools they need to successfully grow high-quality ingredients. The authors’ passion for homebrewing and gardening shines through, making the text engaging and accessible.

Beyond gardening, The Homebrewer’s Garden delves into the preparation and use of these homegrown ingredients in brewing. The book offers a wealth of recipes and brewing tips, demonstrating how to incorporate fresh hops, malted grains, and herbs into a variety of beer styles. The inclusion of unique brewing herbs like yarrow, juniper, and coriander adds an exciting dimension for brewers looking to experiment with flavors and create distinctive brews. This holistic approach, from garden to glass, empowers homebrewers to craft beers that are truly their own, imbued with the flavors and aromas of their own gardens.

In conclusion, The Homebrewer’s Garden is an invaluable resource that combines practical gardening advice with creative brewing techniques. Joe and Dennis Fisher have crafted a guide that is not only informative but also inspiring, encouraging homebrewers to explore the full potential of their craft. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your brewing process with homegrown ingredients, this book is a must-have addition to your brewing library.

My GoodReads Rating: ***
My LibraryThing Rating: ***1/2
Global Average GoodReads Rating: 3.75 (as of 4.30.24)

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Beer Education: Series Overview

BKline — Thu, 28 May 2020 14:30:00 +0000

Well, like I said at the end of Module Ten, I would do a series wrap-up afterwards. If you’ve followed along, and if you have done the program / MOOC as well, we are all done now. It took roughly two months to get it completed, as my first post about the Series was on March 26th and I finished the class and Module Ten on May 26th. So two months from start of the blog about it to the end of the actual module, and another day or so for this final wrap-up. Not bad, and an interesting way to pass the time, especially during this quarantine and lockdown.

Speaking of that, things are progressively re-opening here in Central PA area, as well as in the nation as a whole. We’ll see how that goes, and with fingers crossed, maybe soon we’ll be sharing a pint together at a brewery.

As I said from the beginning of the series, I was doing this class without the certificate, so all of the ‘verified track learner’ pages and assessments were off limits to me. I would love to hear from anyone in the comments section who took the full version of the class, and paid for the certificate and got to see the verified track learner’s content pages. My take on that is this though – the certificate would be NICE to have, and would LOOK good… but, it is ultimately unneeded. The information learned is the real value, and any brewery that you are looking to use this for, will most likely be happy with you having the knowledge over the piece of paper. (Of course, the piece of paper would help a bit more, but I don’t think its a massive jump in ‘helping’ or value.) Brewing, and brewery industry jobs, are kind of still in a medieval sense, or in a ‘wild west’ kind of territory. Most breweries are opened with the owner being the head brewer (for craft breweries in America), and most of them got their start home brewing. So you have a lot of basically self-taught people opening their own businesses who learned by home brewing, not professionally. Now, this isn’t always the case, but it seems to happen frequently enough to bear out the point.

Thats not to take away from getting the certificate. Doing so will be an addition, and will help you in jobs. But so is just taking this class. Just show some proof of doing it, and answer questions and show your knowledge. There is other free (and pay-for) resources and certificates online, getting some of them will help as well.

So lets recap the course a bit. There was ten modules, not counting assessments and all that, there was ten modules with different topics for each. In each module was segments, but lets broadly just look at the modules.

Module One: The History of Beer Brewing
Module Two: Barley and Malting
Module Three: Water
Module Four: Hops and Spices
Module Five: Yeast
Module Six: The Steps of the Brewing Process
Module Seven: Fermentation and Maturation
Module Eight: Filtration and Packaging
Module Nine: Beer Quality and Stability
Module Ten: Beer Assessment and Tasting

In all of the discussion pages, so far, I’ve received two comments / replies back in the actual modules. I will post my comment and the responses here.

First:
My comment: “I find it in interesting in America that especially in the last few years there has been a greater move to go from bottle to can. Likewise from growler to crowler. I actually tend to prefer bottles for the 12oz and 16oz varieties, but prefer crowler (32oz) over the growler (32oz). Can’t exactly place why, perhaps because of a taste difference. Though I’m told by many there is no taste difference, and The Alchemist brewery even says to drink their IPAs from the can rather than from the glass. (I do typically pour into glasses from either can or glass; unless busy grilling or mowing or whatever, then I drink straight from the can or glass.)

Curious what other’s thoughts are on the glass bottle vs. can debate.”

The response:

“By: kr3846

In my opinion cans are the way to go 100% of the time. They are basically mini-kegs. They protect better against light and oxygen way better than crown/ bottles ever could. Which is a good enough reason to deem them the winner out-right. They are lighter weight which cuts down on shipping cost, both as a raw material and as a finished product. This also means they can be packed more cans per truck/ boat which ultimately leads to less consumption of fossil fuels. They are also 1000 times more recyclable than glass. In America, very few if any breweries (if any) are doing glass bottle returns. Plus, with cans you do not have the concerns with breaking glass around swimming pools, patios, backpacking, camping, etc.

I think (in America at least) there is still a stigma about drinking from a can. As if it is ubiquitous with large crappy breweries like AB-InBev. People seem to see drinking from a bottle as the “craft” or “artisanal” option. I wish we would move past this and accept cans as the clearly superior form of packaging they are for all the reasons listed above.

That being said, in the growler/ crowler debate, I think growlers are the way to go for the simple fact that they are re-usable. The single use aspect of crowlers, while convenient, is not very environmentally friendly. I do not have nearly the strong opinions in this debate than I do in the can vs bottle debate.

As for Heady Topper, they say to drink from a can because the beer looks like shit. Or the more “scientific” reason would be to keep the hop compounds contained in the can rather than losing them to the volatility of pouring into a glass.

Cheers!”

Second:
My comment: “Another great module. I have really been enjoying this course! I am learning a lot!

-B. Kline
https://thebeerthrillers.home.blog/“

The response: “By: StijnS (Staff)

Hi Ben,

Thanks for these nice words. We also appreciate that you keep a blog on your progress throughout the MOOC.

Have fun with the last module of the MOOC,

Stijn”

Overall, I really enjoyed the MOOC and the modules were all well done and very informative. The various expert clips were especially interesting and educational. For those, looking to further their beer or brewery knowledge, or looking for something to do (most modules were very quick and not extremely time consuming), or for someone looking for a foot in the door at a brewery or just hoping to better themselves for a brewery position (or one they already have), I would highly recommend this course.

I will be posting more information on possible other classes I do, and others that I’ve done in the past, when I get to the next beer education series, so be on the alert for that. And as we enter June, be ready to see a lot more beer reviews and brewery reviews as places start to open back up.

Until then, please stay safe and healthy, we’re almost there! Cheers!

-B. Kline

Beer Education: Module Two: Barley and Malting

BKline — Wed, 08 Apr 2020 15:30:34 +0000

Firstly, let me apologize for the fact that its taken me awhile to post this, as well as the lack of posts. I know I said I was going to do a post a day… and despite being in lockdown, its amazing how hard it is to actually write right now. Despite all the free time, I find myself not wanting to write as much, and I also find myself doing a lot more around the house (so thats a plus). Also, there’s a lack of going out to drink, so I’m not trying as much new beer right now, and mostly drinking the regulars and flagship beers by Boneshire Brew Works, Troegs Brewing, Rotunda Brewing, Pizza Boy Brewing, Lord Hobo, and Tattered Flag. (Again, not really a negative.) But it does mean not as much to write about.

Also, I’ve found my energy to write is somewhat dissipated when a) I have all this time to do “REAL” work around the house, b) I almost have ‘too much’ time, and c) my keyboard is still acting up with certain keys. With a) I find myself doing yard work, helping my daughters with their new online schooling, taking the dog for more walks.With b) I think its the issue of “the busier you are the more you get done”. Its a surprising thing to note, that the days I worked, I got more blog stuff done, etc, I think because my time is / was so limited it forced me to work on it right away, instead of saying “I’ll do it later” …. later never comes. I keep pushing it back. With c) … well its just an annoyance factor, when you constantly use H or N or Y or U, it gets really frustrating trying to do work arounds or mashing your hand into the keyboard to get a button to press. Hopefully soon I will be getting a new laptop (not a priority during a pandemic where I got laid off and have a ton of other things on my plate), and when I do, I imagine my writing will ramp up. Also, as for the blog, it seems AJ and Josh aren’t as interested in writing as much anymore, so I’m the sole force and driver of the blog, which means I need to buckle down and write more, just need to find that energy and drive. The other issue with writing, is always the marketing afterwards. Getting the blog post seen, and doing all the work on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc. It seems writing the blog takes 2-3 hours, and then another hour of self-promotion. And if I post it late (8PM or later lets say), the response from the community is far less than ideal (compared to posting at say noon).

Ok, enough rant and crap, lets finally kick off Module Two. Module two is about barley and malting and taking a key look at the first of the four major ingredients in beer (malt, water, hops, and yeast). The intro page talks about the course ramping up, and comes with an intro video by Stijn.

The second page is a discussion board where you can discuss what cereals (or malts) are used in your country. The question asked is: “In your country, what cereals are used?” and my response was:
“In the US craft beer scene there is pretty much an unlimited amount of grains and cereals at use, by all the different breweries. From roasted malt, to barley, to oats, to flaked oats, to ACTUAL cereals or even pastries (whoopie pies I’ve seen used, etc), and breads and things like graham crackers. Pretty much if it has starch or fermentable sugars, a craft brewer / craft brewery has used it in the USA.”

The next page is another video by Stijn – this time about barley. In the 3:16 minute video, he discusses why barley is pretty much the universal “go to” grain for brewing. Listing economical as well as brew-technical reasons for barley (as compared to the myriad of other choices). Economical reasons are: “grows on all continents, good grain yield, and strong disease resistance”, which means its produced the most (and most effectively) and means the cost for it is going to be lower compared to other options. Brew-technical reasons given are: “local availability, high starch content, sufficient yeast nutrients, sufficient enzyme formation, and adhering husks”.

Next we move onto the ‘barley structure’. Barley is primarily divided into two major types – winter barley and spring barley. From here, there can be many more sub-divisions and varieties like: two-row or six-row barley. Two-row barley is the preferred barley for most brewing. Kernels are more homogeneous, it has a more favorable endosperm over husk ratio, and it has lower protein levels.

Scrolling down on this page, you will find a chart and diagram where you can click different topics and names to read more about barley and the husks and other features of barley. The key parts are: the husk, pericarp and testa, aleurone layer, endosperm, embryo, and the scutellum and epithelium.

The next page is the chemical composition of barley. Here they break down the chemical and molecular levels of a barley kernel, detailing moisture content, carbohydrates, proteins, inorganic matters, lipids, and other smaller matters.

Moving onto the next page we start with the carbohydrates. Carbohydrates are roughly 70% of the dry matter of a kernel and can be broken into two categories: storage and structural. Storage – mainly starch. Structural – cellulose and hemicellulose. There is a drop down menu which breaks these all down for further reading and the molecular composition of each piece. After this is a 7 minute video by Professor Christophe Courtin, one of the experts for the program.

The next page is nitrogen compounds of barley kernels. The page breaks down the nitrogen percentages for the barley used for brewing versus animal feed, and then discusses the proteins in the kernels. After this we move on to polyphenols. Polyphenols contribute greatly to the stability and shelf life of beer. It contributes to the beer color, mouthfeel, and act as natural anti-oxidants.

The next page is a quick quiz to make sure we’re actually retaining all of this knowledge. After the two question quiz, there is a page about barley pests for verified track learners only (if you are paying for your certificate). The net two pages are video and discussion going back to the malting experiment.

This is followed by an expert video by Sofie Malfliet. She has a PHD in Malting Technologies. This is a 7 minute video, discussing her work at Albert Maltings. Following the video we get an overview of the malting process. There is five main steps: 1) cereal cleaning, sorting, and storage, 2) steeping, 3) germination, 4) drying and kilning, and 5) deculming.

From here, this five step process gets broken down. Starting with the cleaning and sorting of the barley. The second page is steeping. (Which is the process of periodically submerging graded barley to initiate germination.) The third page is germination. The fourth page is drying and kilning, and is loaded with charts and information. After this, the fifth and final page is about deculming. After kilning the malt is cooled and the culms are removed. These pages are followed up by a quiz, so hopefully you didn’t skim over it.

Following the quiz is a discussion page on green malt. The question posed is: “What are the advantages you think of using green malt in the brewing process? Are there any disadvantages you can think of? Please share your thoughts with us!” My answer:
“There is definitely advantages and disadvantages. Firstly, for disadvantages its primarily economical and logistical. So for smaller end malting plants this won’t be ideal (thinking of Deer Creek Malt in PA). As far as advantages go, its mainly environmental. Which is always a benefit on the long haul if we are able to do it. Problem is the ‘being able to do it’ part.”

Moving on, we come to the overview of different malts page (next page). It breaks down the barley malts by pilsner, pale ale, munich, aromatic, roasted, and caramel. The next page is another page for verified track learners only (different malt types).

The next page is adjuncts. Their definition of an adjunct is: “Adjuncts are defined as non-malted (mostly carbohydrate) materials used as complements or supplements to (barley) malt. These supplements are used in brewing for the following reasons – cost saving, enhancing brewhouse capacity, and influence on beer.” Different regions have rules, laws, and regulations about adjuncts. Germany still holds true to the purity laws. Some examples of adjuncts are: unmalted barley, corn (flakes), rice (flakes), sugar and sugar syrup.

And that pretty much wraps up Module Two. There is a feedback page, a small quiz page (one question), a larger assessment page (if you are a verified track learner), a discussion page, and an overview page. The final page is a “End of Module Two” page and if you click NEXT after that it brings you to the intro video for module three. So, join me next when we get to tackling module three!

Hopefully it’ll be sooner than later, possibly even tonight, or tomorrow. (Most likely tomorrow at the earliest.) I am going to try and really double-down and get these goings, with some possible beer reviews and other things to round out my articles. I have been working hard on my hops these last few days (beautiful weather), and taking lots of pictures, so there will probably be an article about that for all of you hop growers (or wanna-be hop growers).

Cheers, and stay safe and healthy everyone, looking forward to getting back out to breweries and having a pint with ya’ll! Cheers!

-B. Kline

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